Sunday 5 October

Intending to start early we rise and pack in the dark,finally getting on the road at 8.45am. As usual a cool start and tarmac quickly turns to a green forest path that skirts around Padrouza (Arca). There are few perigrinos on the path we make good time passing through small hamlets with increasing numbers of pilgrims walking. The weather threatens but thankfully never rains. The wind is cold, good weather for walking. Ten kms from Santiago we find a sheltered position and pullout lunch and redwine to fortify us for the final stage of walking. Our legs are stiff and sore, ankles and feet wishing each step was the last. We are in good spirits and finally reach Mount de Gozo overlooking Santiago. A large bronze and stone edifice marks the final descent and perigrinos gather to take photos, rest and drink. Along descent preludes our arrival in Santiago yet we have to cover 5kms more to reach the cathedral. Dee insists on closure, get our final stamp and pilgrim's certificate before finding a hotel. Some time later, after passing some likely hotels, Dee is in the mood to postpone closure in favour of hot water and rest.

We find the cathedral and spend 20 minutes trying to find the Oficina Peregrino for stamps and certificates. Finding the unremarkable office, it's a line up to be processed as more and more pilgrims come in out of the cold. Officially processed we walk 50 m and find our hotel. We have walked enough and now for well deserved showers and the obligatory libation prior to stepping out for dinner. A grand day indeed, we finish the Camino and in honour of our achievement, Manly thrash the Storm 40 – 0. Celebrations now mandatory.

From Dee
I thought I should also post the obligatory sore feet photos and the owner. As I've taken the bus for a few of the sections I only have one blister that I earnt a couple of days ago, and that has now healed. Yes my feet are sore but Pete's ... oh my God ... the photos make them look a lot better than they are.

I'm looking forward to getting a suntan on the right hand side of my body. The walk, basically east to west has afforded a splendid golden tan on the left hand side of my body, so, lying on that side and sipping sangrias, sounds like a good balancing act.

Saturday 4 October

From Dee
We decide on an early start and make it away by 10 – oh well. Once again a cool and overcast day which makes the walking very pleasant. I chip away at Pete with suggestions of arriving in Santiago on Sunday. I look longingly as we pass a taxi rank, but ... I keep on walking. Fresh raspberries are for sale on a little lane for 1.5E in the honesty box. Delicious. We have a coffee stop at the top of a hill after a couple of hours of walking and peel off some clothing before heading off on the next 8km or so to Arzua – the next official stop. We lunch and as we stroll through town I spy the taxi rank – hurray! So it's off to Rua the last stop before Santiago. Our accommodation Bar-Casa Rural has a lovely rustic charm. The room is large and the bed soft. The restaurant opens at 8 so Pete heads out for supplies 1km down the road whilst I blog and lounge on the banana chair in the garden.

From Pete
We are on the threshold of finishing the Camino de Santiago de Compostela, or at least our experience of it. Some have cycled, some have chosen to cover parts of the walk they had not completed previously, others walk each step of the “way” as described in their guide books, while Dee and I have walked, bussed, hitched and taxied approximately 850 km. We are sore and fatigued. We have washed our bodies and clothes in bathrooms across Spain. We have experienced wonderful rural and religious architecture, art and culture. The food has been overall average with a few memorable exceptions. Red wine and beer have been plentiful, cheap and great. We have never stopped laughing, mostly at ourselves. Less than 30 kms to go and we can relax, go south and enjoy Gaudi, food and wine.

Friday 3 October

From Dee
Feeling refreshed after a days break we aim to head off early but still only manage an 8:50 depart. The mist has rolled in again an we can't see the footbridge that crosses the reservoir 200m beyond. The morning is cool and the walking uphill so all in all really lovely. As we rise through the clouds we”re greeted by sunshine and beautiful vistas. Our first stop in after 2 hours walking is for coffee, cheese and bread. Just before our lunch stop at Gonzar we meet the yanks again who exclaim they thought they were the last ones on the trail that day. We assure them there are plenty more behind us and settle down to our lunch of .... you guessed it .... wine, more cheese, bread, tomatoes, tuna and chocolate. Yum. Fortified we head on for another 3 hours of walking into Palas do Rei.

We spy our first Eucalyptus trees today and there are plenty more to come.

Of course I suggest a taxi to the next town (or maybe several small towns on) and I have to say Pete doesn't put up much resistance. Actually he's in boots and all so to speak. So Melide is our stop. The hostal is good and our perigrino dinner one of the better ones with a traditional soup as entree and octopus as the main. The lady who owns the place is delightful and looks after everyone like a mum.

So another 13k on and only 2 days of walking to go.

It's an interesting experience. As I've said before the little towns are so beautiful and some of the countryside is exquisite but overall there are some very ordinary stretches of landscape both rural and urban. Once a spiritual walk to be offered remittance of sins in this life, it now seems to be something quite different. The pilgrims are made up of a whole range of people from driven types who have to walk each step of the way and who knows what for – just to say they've done it I assume - to party goers who enjoy the camaraderie of the albergues and the ability to live really cheaply.

As Europe's Premier Cultural Itinerary and a Unesco World Heritage Site it is littered with garbage from the pilgrims and that part of it is really disappointing.

As for the food – everyone has told us what wonderful food there is in Spain and indeed we've had a few excellent meals but all in all it is pretty ordinary. Still bread, potato, bread, stale bread, potato, egg and potato. We've travelled over 700km across the top of Spain and passed hundreds and hundreds of acres of crop especially corn and asparagus and have only had tinned versions served up to us. We order a salad at every meal and it has been the same for 700km also with no variation – quite amazing – iceberg lettuce, tomato, tinned asparagus, tinned tuna, tinned corn and the occasional egg ... but at least it's not potato. And don't get me wrong, I love potato, I just thought with all this walking a few kilos might have slipped away, but alas not the case.

From Peter.
Dee and I have discussed the Camino on a few occasions mostly focusing on why it is so popular, why it is widely viewed as one of 3 great modern pilgrimages and what types of people inhabit the walk.

I suppose when I had researched the Camino (not extensively), my impression was that it would be a fantastic journey of self discovery. When I met Dee, or some time later, I mentioned the Camino and Dee had heard something of it (vaguely). Some time later i proposed we walk the camino, Dee suggested an abridged version, the trip grew to include a broader coverage of Spain. My initial zeal (not religious but scorpionic stubbornness) took some time to be replaced with a more realistic view of the Camino. As time has passed I have come to view the walk, the heritage site, with some contempt. I wonder if it is the same contempt with which most European peregrinos view the pilgrimage. Dogged determination to walk every step and pollute as much as possible. I fear the Camino has become a badge of courage, something to impress friends with over drinks or dinner, rather than a true spiritual journey. True, many people we have met have been generous, open and willing to share this part of their lives with us, yet my overall impression is that the camino has become a premier party walk for the young and some “must do” experience for the middle aged and older.

Have I regretted the decision to walk? My answer would have to be no. Dee and I have experienced physical hardship and obstacles that would test the best of relationships. I am amazed at our ability to communicate, give and take, and continue with humour and love. We are very lucky to have each other, to be such great mates and understand each other's needs even if Dee continues to hold the power of veto. It is Dee's unwavering common sense and good nature that has seen us through.

Thursday 2 October

Dee and I prepare for the day which is basically how to pack me light and get me the next 24km to Portomarin. We head off to the bus station to make sure Dee can find her way there. We part company, Dee for the hotel and me for the hills. Literally, I walk to the highest point in Sarria only to find a quick, steep descent back out of town. Galicea is beautiful in every direction. The cloud has rolled in, the wind is bordering on cold, I walk at a brisk pace over the Roman bridge through corn fields only to be confronted by 20 Germans on a supported day walk. We hit a 45 degree ascent, I put on the gas, passing Germans, cyclists and assorted peregrinos. Without Dee I am in no mood for a social walk in the country. At the summit, sweating and breathless, the plateau opens ahead, rain threatens, the kms pass quickly. A winding maze of tracks and roads pass through and everchanging verdent landscape. The colours of Galicea are green and slate with an infrequent primary door or window.

Oak, chestnut and apple in every direction. Green with slashes of grey dappled stone walls. I don't want to stop. I wonder if Dee was not going to be in Portomarin would I ever want to leave this amazing place. It is as what I imagine Ireland looks like. Walking over the undulating tracks that sparkle with what I think is iron pyrites, I find an inner quiet different to anything I have felt before. Alive and yet so peacefully quiet. It is as though the landscape and the celtic music that is sometimes heard are wakening some miniscule particle of celtic gene material and my ancestry,my origins, my heart is tuned in to every shade of green, every blast of cool wind, every slant of sunlight through oak. I wish Dee were here to share this time, however, the solitary walk gives rise to reflection, an acute awareness of the environment and th joy of finding that special peace within.

Better watch out or I'll burst forth with “The hills are alive with.........” , but isn't that Switzerland? Enough of the girly gushing and I arrive at Perdello where an aubergue has risen from the fractured remains of an ancient stone dwelling. This place is simply fantastic. Hope you see the little video. Beer, tortilla, tomato, bread, water and ibuprofen for lunch. Meet up with a yank couple we have seen off and on. Back to business. Quick descent to Portomarin, across the footbridge and over what should be a deep reservoir covering the ancient town. Spain has a water crisis and this reservoir is so low you can see the footings of the ancient city. Up the stairs and ascend to the centre of town (why do they build these towns on steep hills, no consideration for people who have walked miles to get there that's for sure), Dee is walking down, impeccable timing as usual.

Dee ushers me back to the hotel room where there is a large bath and reservoir views. We have a soak, wash clothes, head out for refreshments, supplies and possible Wifi. Meet the yanks again at drinks and head back for our Peregrino dinner.

Wednesday 1 October

We arrange a taxi which arrives on time to take us up to Cebreiro at 1300m. The country is breathtaking and I tell Dee that I feel a combination of guilt and of missing out on one of the camino's gems. Dee as usual is the pragmatist, riding today means we can walk tomorrow.

We get to Cebreiro, above the clouds and the view is spectacular. Coffees and toast, we prepare for the descent to Triacastela. The mist has rolled in, the temperature has dropped dramatically, we head down the road. Visibility has dropped to 50m or less. It's wet.After 2.5km there is a taxi. Thirty euros later we arrive at Triacastela. A quick provision up at the “supermercado” and we head of for Sarria via San Xil, the rural route and, thank god, shorter.

The steep climb presents little problem given that the quiet, beautiful oak and chestnut forests are our constant companion. Another unexpected camino gem. Lunch in the sun of an open field. An easy walk to Pintin, approx 5km short of Sarria, but the going is increasingly downhill. We stop for a beer and food. Hearty Germans are taking the piss out of a Korean. The “pub” owner gets in bis 4wd, I signal. Ten minutes later we are in Sarria. Dee has a smile on her face. An hour later we are in a hotel room. I go of to find a “farmacia” while Dee refreshes herself. Dinner is unremarkable. Dee is not walking tomorrow.

Tuesday 30 September

We are awoken at 3am by rowdy revellers getting home from a late night out. No doubt they'll be up by 6 and gone by 7 – bastards – oh to be young again. We breakfast at 8 and hit the road by 9 and as usual take the more difficult option for todays route. But as described in the Lonely Planet a safer and more beautiful route to Trabadelo. We begin with a long ascent - and the views are breathtaking – to 1000m and cross the undulating hills passing only a few walkers some of whom we've been leapfrogging the last few days. The descent is through Chestnut Groves and very steep and punishing on the legs. Stopping at Trabadelo, Pete's reputation has preceeded him – as he's helped a few people on the trail with injuries. Whilst buying water and sitting on a bench watching coal being unloaded into the little shop they come up and tell Pete their injuries and ask advice. I'm very amused as we're hobbling around like 90 year olds. We want to catch a bus for the next section which is all road but it looks unlikely and turns out that foot is the only option. This is of course against our rules as walking and highways don't mix. So what to do? The answer of course is to find a spot and have lunch and we are pleasantly surprised when we find ourselves sitting at the footings of an old bridge, surrounded by wild strawberries and entertained by red squirrels in the trees above – quite a rarity to see.

However the respite quickly passes and Dee suggests we try and hitch a ride but our chances look slim. And so it's on for another 2-3 to Portela. We remain optimistic that modern transport will come to our rescue but again it seems unlikely and we are even less motivated to hitchhike after being told the Spanish don't like to pick people up. Refreshed with Shandies we head on for another couple of k and find good accommodation at Vega de Valcarce. We're sitting on the verandah with our vino and chippies above a running stream watching our washing dry in the setting sun. We've arranged for taxi in the morning to take us onto Cebreiro – we think. Less than 200k to go.

Monday 29 September

As the walk today is mainly along highway we decide to sightsee in the morning and bus it to Villafranca in the afternoon. After calls home and other housekeeping we stroll around town – well limp actually- and learn the lyrics to a couple of songs we can sing on the trail. The song selection is limited to Pete's iPod and my choices are an oldie - Summertime - and a Santana - You've Got to Change Your Evil Ways.

We arrive in Villafranca around 4pm and find fantastic lodgings – Casa Rural. The Scandinavian girl who takes our booking is delightful and recommends a fantastic restaurant that opens at 7:30pm and not 9:00pm like the others. The town is great and coming to life when we head out around 6 for a couple of hours of sightseeing. Dinner is to die for and we head back to our room thoroughly sated, legs and feet somewhat recovered and ready for another day of walking tomorrow.