Friday 19 September

From Pete

Pack, strap even more than the day before. It is 30km to Logrono and Dee, my achilles is severe pain with each step. Leave by 7am in the dark but not alone as the peregrinos test their aching limbs and sore feet for another day of torture. I pass a famous cemetery that has an inscription over the gate. “ I was what you are. You will be what I am”. I had stopped there quite by accident to take my jacket off and pack it. This wasn't the message I needed. So off in the early grey light and reach Sansol, climbing to it's highest point to see the vies from Iglesia de Santo Sepulchre as recommended. It is very steep on the way down and I had to wonder if the view of Torres del Rio was worth it. Two days later and a half bottle of wine consumed, I concede it probably was. Stop at Torres del Rio to patch new blisters.

Several km pass in an undulating topography with many steep ascents and the inevitable descents. The wine and olive growing region and small copses of trees make the going more interesting and although tired and sore, my achilles feels better or numb, I cannot work out which. Stopping above the olives and vineyards , many other travellers are perched either resting or taking lunch. The litter is appalling so I grab a plastic bag and pick up as much rubbish as I can. Finally I give up, pull out the bread, tomato, cucumber, proscuittto and of course, a bottle of red. Popping the cork I hear a “yank” walking past say, “he's got a bottle of wine”. I pretend not to understand. I carried it, I'm drinking it. 40 minutes later packed and with lunch sitting well I set off on the final leg to Logrono and Dee. Stopping frequently along the way to gorge on wild blackberry and rest my achilles, I cannot help but question why anyone would undertake such a ludicrous journey.

Limping into Viana I stop to take pics of Iglesia Santa Maria (another one!!) with it's Renaissance portal. This proves a bad decision as getting my legs going again proves painfully difficult. 9km to go. Shit.

Finally Logrono appears yet it's industrial appearance is far from appealing and 4-5km of industry later I am in a steep descent to Logrono. An old woman sits outside her house stamping credencials and selling cold drinks. The house next door is marked 1249.

Slowly descending to “old” Logrono the view seems more pleasing. Crossing the Rio Ebro, on the Puente de Piedre the scene could have been from any romantic movie you choose to imagine. I have been looking at my feet for over 5km and for some reason I look up to find Dee there in front of me. I wish I could say there was a romantic encounter on a grand scale, well there was a bit, but to tell you the truth, 30 kms later all I can think about is hot water and cold beer.

I get the hot water, followed by ice for my legs. I brought my own wine and Dee has some left over. It doesn't last long. Somewhat fortified we head out to eat and catch up. Can't tell you the rest.

So far I have walked approx 150kms. Slightly over 1/6th of the Camino. My only advice at this point is if you ever entertain the idea of walking the Camino, travel very light and be prepared for pain.